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Art on the Edge: Hair, Hats and Hands in Renaissance Italy Evelyn

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Art on the Edge: Hair, Hats and Hands in Renaissance Italy Evelyn
Art on the Edge: Hair, Hats and Hands in Renaissance Italy
Evelyn Welch, Queen Mary, University of London
Abstract:
This paper argues that items designed for the bodily extremities such as haircoverings, hats, fans and other accessories were valued for the ease with which
they could be changed and adapted to express a range of different meanings:
political, social and individual. They also provided an important point of contact
between the world of commerce, the court elites and the wider community of men
and women who purchased and used these goods. In studying these often
marginalised items, we can explore mechanism for the transmission of concepts
of fashion and innovation in the Renaissance period.
1
Art on the Edge: Hair, Hats and Hands in Renaissance Italy
Evelyn Welch, Queen Mary, University of London
Anthropologists have long argued for the importance of examining all aspects
of bodily display. For scholars such as Edmund Leach and Raymond Firth,
complex headdresses, beards, hair (long, short, washed and unwashed)
offered essential mechanisms for displaying status and position, both sacred
and secular. 1 Other items of material culture designed to be worn or carried
such as umbrellas, flywhisks, or buttons have similarly been investigated for
their ritual and personal meanings in periods as diverse as Ming China and
contemporary America. 2 At the same time, specialists in contemporary fashion
have stressed the ease with which accessories such as shoes, handbags or
sunglasses can convey luxury and social identities.
Yet despite the increased interest in dress and the body, similar items broadly
defined as accessories have received little attention within Renaissance
studies. 3 They remain on the edge of our discussion just as they lie on the
margins of the body. This may be, in part, because contemporary
commentators regarded such goods as either unworthy of attention, or even
2
as immoral. For example, in the popular and widely-read Romance de la
Rose, Lady Idleness was personified as a woman who wore white gloves and
spoke with perfumed breath, introducing herself by saying, ‘I have no care but
to enjoy and amuse myself, and to comb and braid my hair.’ 4
To idleness was added effeminacy. Thus, in his early sixteenth-century
writings, the Neapolitan-based humanist, Giovanni Pontano drew on a wellestablished trope to identify long-haired men with both women and barbarians,
But does anyone approve of shoulder-length hair twisted into ringlets? Is
there anyone who does not shudder at the sight of a beard which flows
down to a man’s chest, or at tufts of hair which protrude from his collar or
are exposed at his arms, even though these fashions are characteristic of
certain nations? Seeking beauty through care for one’s appearance is for
women; seeking to inspire horror is for barbarians. 5
Pontano was clearly referring to Saint Paul’s letter to the Corinthians which
condemned long hair in men. 6 Yet despite his belittling of male ringlets, these
remarks also demonstrate an awareness of the complex associations between
appearance and national, regional and local identities.
Hair, and the many ways in which it could be moulded, shaved, plucked,
curled, covered and ornamented, is only one aspect of body modification and
3
adornment that requires greater investigation from Renaissance and Early
Modern scholars. As with headdresses and hair-coverings, other small-scale,
personal items such as gloves, shoes, handkerchiefs and fans could be both
valued possessions and sources of anxiety. This was not only because of their
metaphorical meanings but also because of the ease with which they could be
adapted and disseminated. In 1533, for example, the Venetian government
stressed that women should wear relatively simple veils; they were not to
‘innovate or change the said method of covering the head, nor wear berets or
hats.’ 7
Leaving aside the complex question of what constituted innovation in this
particular example, this paper argues that such regulations were a response
to the rapidity with which such accessories could be modified and shared
across social boundaries. Although garments were the focus of great concern,
the fabrics that made up the majority of fifteenth and sixteenth-century
wardrobes were often too costly to allow for major adaptations. Instead, goods
that protected the body’s extremities: areas which came into contact with dirt,
dust, rain and mud, proved more flexible. In this context, stockings and shoes,
gloves, fans, handkerchiefs and hats, headdresses and hair-ties all had
dedicated uses for hygiene, protection and decorum. But as these goods were
literally ‘consumed’ in their use, there were more opportunities to replace and,
where desired, update them. This sustained a level of demand which
encouraged high levels of production of ready-made or partly fashioned items,
4
creating a relationship between the market economy, urban communities and
court fashion. At the same time, it also created complex relationships between
the men and women who wore, or wished to wear them and those who
manufactured and sold them. These networks challenge our traditional
explanations for changes in fashion in the Renaissance and early modern
period in Europe.
Hair, Hats and Head-dresses:
To explore issues of the social interconnections created by fashionable dress,
this paper focuses on the inter-relationships between the court elites in cities
such as Milan, Mantua and Florence and the wider market for dress accessories.
Although shoes and stockings are important features of this market, the focus is
primarily on the ornamentation of the head and the hands. 8 This is because, as
one contemporary sociologist has argued, ‘hair is perhaps our most powerful
symbol of individual and group identity – powerful first because it is physical and
therefore extremely personal, and second because, although personal, it is also
public rather than private.’ 9 In his work on beards and masculinity in the Early
Modern Period, Will Fisher has similarly demonstrated the multi-faceted nature of
responses to facial hair in sixteenth-century England. 10 Hands too, as one of the
few areas of flesh visible lower down the body, were an equally important focus
of attention and the sexualised nature of the glove was regularly celebrated in
Petrarchan poetry. 11
5
Caring for these parts of the body required time and could prove costly. For men
the exercise was often undertaken professionally, either by employing a personal
barber or through regular trips to the barbershop for shaving, hair-cutting, beardtrimming, nail-care and the removal of ear-wax. 12 For wives and daughters, such
activities usually occurred in domestic settings, drawing together women from
different social levels. In 1505, for example, the Mantuan courtier, Benedetto
Capilupi told Isabella of the success of one of her hair styles in Ferrara,
emphasising the collective amusement that Lucrezia Borgia and her ladies found
in rearranging their hair:
The head-dresses of these women and of the Duchess are just like those of
your Excellency and our ladies, with little veils – some yellow, some of
brocade and some white. The women pay attention to nothing but curling
each other’s hair just like our little girls do. 13
The sociability involved in this activity is clear, but at the same time Capilupi
dismisses it as an activity of girls, putte, rather than considering it as a serious
pursuit. The female networks created by fashionable hair-care were not regarded
as holding political or economic significance. This seems understandable yet
even in these wealthy court communities hair care was neither straight-forward
nor without its problems. Humoural theories based on the traditions of Aristotle
and Galen considered any form of washing as potentially dangerous. 14 Warm
6
water and steam opened the pores of the skin allowing vapours to enter or exit
the body which potentially changed one’s natural temperament and led to illness.
Although it has often been suggested that this resulted in a reduction in bathing,
the solution was not to stop washing altogether but to do so with care. 15
Alternative dry methods might be employed, such as combing bran or flour
through the hair or, when water was involved, to plan for a period of recovery.
Thus in a letter to Isabella d’Este of 8 January 1518, Antonia del Balzo explained
that her daughter Camilla could not leave the house, ‘because she has washed
her head today’. 16 Similarly, Lucrezia Borgia’s devotion of an entire day to
washing her hair does not seem to have been unusual and Isabella herself
explained to her husband that, ‘having washed my head today, I have spent so
much time drying my hair that a whole day has passed.’ Washing and drying
were only the beginning of hair care. The paraphernalia involved in could be
extensive including scented waters, dyes, combs, pins, special towels for drying
the head (sugacapi) and mirrors while some of the procedures such as plucking
and depilation were painful. This was before the finishing touches of ribbons,
snoods and cauls, hats and caps, veils and jewels specifically designed to be
worn as part of a head-dress, were included.
It would be easy to describe this investment of both time and money as vanity
and frivolity. But in creating a very visible area for display of the upper body,
women were also inviting comment and creating very public social identities that
both emphasised their status and displayed their interconnections. In 1502, for
7
example, the Duchess of Urbino, Elisabetta Gonzaga wrote to the Mantuan
courtier Vincenzo Calmeta, replying to earlier remarks concerning the hairstyles
employed during Lucrezia Borgia’s wedding to Alfonso II of Ferrara. She
explained,
The Lady Marquis (Isabella d’Este) who was responsible for the hairstyles
and ornaments says that Piceno (Benedetto da Cingoli) should not marvel
that the Romans were so pleased by the way she put up her hair because if
they had paid as close attention to the front of medals as they did to their
reverses, then they would not have praised her hairstyle so lavishly…You
show such admiration for our new hair fashions and from the way we are
dressed different from the others, that if with your subtle ingenuity you had
considered it closely before you had seen it introduced you would not have
been so surprised’…
17
[Figure 1]
It is not surprising that viewers were curious about Isabella’s hair and that of her
new sister-in-law, Lucrezia (whose medal shows her locks drawn up in a similar
fashion). [Figure 2] Indeed, it is hard to appreciate today just how radical this
informal hairstyle must have seemed to contemporaries. Although they were only
in their twenties, the Marchioness of Mantua and the Duchess of Ferrara were
mature, married women. The loosely-bound hair displayed in their medals was
generally associated with younger women. It was highly unconventional in terms
of the status and stage in life when a married woman wore a veil, hat or some
8
other form of head-dress. Indeed, in appearing without a head-dress of any sort,
Lucrezia and Isabella were in danger of violating Christian norms. For example,
In the same letter to the Corinthians condemning masculine long-hair, St Paul
had demanded that women cover their head, both as a sign of respect to God
and as an indication of their subservience to their husbands,
But every woman praying or prophesying with her head unveiled
dishonoureth her head; for it is one and the same thing as if she were
shaven. For if a woman is not veiled, let her also be shorn: but if it is a
shame to a woman to be shorn or shaven, let her be veiled. For a man
indeed ought not to have his head veiled, forasmuch as he is the image and
glory of God: but the woman is the glory of the man. For the man is not of
the woman; but the woman of the man: for neither was the man created for
the woman; but the woman for the man: for this cause ought the woman to
have a sign of authority on her head, because of the angels. 18
Although the precise interpretation of this passage was problematic, many
commentators felt the implications were clear. One fourteenth-century text
described how, ‘the veiled head is also a sign that woman transgressed the first
commandment and violated its terms…since the veil carries with it woman’s
humility, it would displease the Lord greatly should the woman behave arrogantly
towards it.’ 19
9
Far from being simply shocking as a fashion novelty, Isabella’s refusal to wear a
veil in public and the circulation of her image with her hair loosely arranged
challenged many conventional assumptions about female modesty and
subservience. Lucrezia’s adoption of this style during her wedding and in her
subsequent medal reinforced their connections as sisters-in-law and as
unconventional women who could challenge contemporary norms. Nonetheless,
while the change prompted comment it did not cause an outcry; but it is
noticeable, that neither Isabella (who also had herself depicted by Leonardo da
Vinci with her hair down completely [Fig 3]), nor Lucrezia, continued with this
style for long, reverting a few years later to elaborate head-dresses with complex
ornamentation.
In doing so they took advantage of the Pauline demand that they should cover
their heads as an opportunity for display; but if women accepted the need to
wear a headdress the decision to what type to adopt could prove complex.
Amongst court elites, it carried political and diplomatic overtones, indicating
kinship, friendship and clientage as well as fashionability. When Isabella’s sister,
Beatrice d’Este came to Milan as the bride of Ludovico Maria Sforza in 1490, for
example, she rapidly institutionalized a very unusual and distinctive look. This
was the so-called coazzone, a long false braid that ran down from a centre
parting. This style, Iberian in origin, predated her marriage; a portrait bust by
Gian Cristoforo Romano, which identifies her as her father’s daughter and
alludes to her forthcoming marriage through a Sforza emblem on her chest
10
already depicts her with her hair tied back in this manner. [Figure 4] Beatrice
would have been expected to relinquish this fashion on her marriage for it was
conventional for aristocratic brides to adopt the dress of their husband’s courts.
For example, when he married Bona of Savoy in 1468, Duke Galeazzo Maria
Sforza of Milan carefully ordered the Lombard garments he expected his new
bride to wear, including the transparent veils that he ordered specially from Città
di Castello. 20 Beatrice’s very deliberate decision to retain her natal style, as seen
in the later votive portrait by the Master of the Pala Sforzesca, rather than imitate
her mother-in-law and adopt Lombard fashions, may have been prompted by the
Milanese court’s distinctive sexual politics. [Figure 5] Her spouse, Ludovico il
Moro, was not the Duke of Milan; he was regent for his nephew, Gian Galeazzo
Visconti who had recently married the daughter of the King of Naples, Beatrice’s
cousin, Isabella of Aragon. In addition, Ludovico had a mistress, Cecilia Gallerani
who continued to live in the Castello Sforzesco during the early years of his
marriage. 21 The relationship and precedence accorded to each of these women
was closely observed by commentators inside and outside the court. In using,
and then effectively imposing, her distinctive head-dress, Beatrice’s visual
dominance over the Milanese court and its women was made overt. In a series
of portraits from Milan in the 1490s, the elite women in Milan are almost always
shown with the long braid behind their backs [Figures 6-7] while the image of
Ludovico’s investiture in 1494 from the Arcimbolodo missal emphasizes the
almost livery-like nature of the coazzone of Beatrice’s court. 22 [Figure 8] Even
Cecilia had herself painted by Leonardo da Vinci wearing a modified version of
11
the braid, effectively acknowledging her subordinate status. That this imagery
was not simply a feature of local fashion or even due to Lombard styles of portrait
painting can be seen from an altarpiece produced in exactly this period by the
Florentine artist, Domenico Ghirlandaio for the Malatesta family in Rimini. Here,
the wife, Violante Bentivoglio, a Sforza ally through her natal family and by
marriage, also wears her hair in the style popularised by Beatrice. [Figure 9] The
close association is further suggested by the fact that when the Duchess died in
1497, the coazzone, or at least its representation in portraiture, became much
rarer. Although the fashion remained popular in Spain, it ceased to have meaning
in Milan.
But Beatrice was not the only figure to use accessories and hairstyles to
construct a collective identity, As the letter of 1505 from Capilupi above indicates,
her sister, the Marchioness of Mantua also created a powerful hold over the
visual image of her friends and followers. However, Isabella used very different
mechanisms than those employed by Beatrice. Rather than fix on a single
fashion such as the coazzone to be worn throughout her life, she modified her
hairstyles regularly. [Figure 11] Thus, although only a small number of portraits of
Isabella survive, all show different methods of managing her hair. Moreover, her
correspondence suggests that while she encouraged emulation, she professed to
be annoyed by direct copying. Aristocratic women might only adopt her hairstyles
with permission, usually after the Marchioness herself had supposedly tired of
12
the fashion in question. 23 In 1509, for example, Eleanora Ruscha, the Countess
of Correggio wrote to Isabella,
Finding myself in Locarno, I heard that some noblewomen in Milan were
wearing a new type of silk head-dress, a notable invention of your
ladyship. And since I now find myself almost without a hat, with great
desire I beg you to consider me worthy of one…And so I beg your ladyship
that if there is some form of head-dress that you have stopped wearing, let
me join in with it so that I will not seem to be outside the number of your
most faithful servants. 24
This letter makes it clear that the countess wanted to make her allegiance to
Isabella visible, a strategy that was more political than this letter suggests. In
1509, Milan was under the domination of King Louis XII of France; Isabella’s
nephew, Massimiliano Sforza was widely regarded as the legitimate heir and the
‘faithful servants’ were not only pro-d’Este, they were anti-French. By January
1512, when Agnese degli Attendoli wrote from Milan to again describe the
adoption of the Marchioness’s styles, the battle lines between the French and
Sforza supporters were at their height and Massimiliano would return to briefly
rule Milan until 1515.
13
Agnese (who was probably related to Massimiliano Sforza’s great-grandfather,
Muzio Attendolo), did not describe the political situation in Milan, she focused on
the reaction to her hair which she had adopted from one of Isabella’s fashions,
When I first came here, my headdress was much praised, except by
Madonna Leonora who said that she did not like it at all and that is was a
very silly sort of style. But two days ago even she went to Madonna
Ippolita Bentivoglio to get the same hairstyle and when I saw her I said:
‘so, now you too want to be one of the silly ones.’ I believe she is regretting
not having been the first to find this style and she wears a hat on top of it
and has tinted her coif black. I am sending your Excellency one so that you
can judge how these are. 25
All the women involved in this exchange were related in some way to the Sforza
cause. Ippolita Bentivolgio was the niece of the penultimate Duke of Milan and
Leanora was probably the self-same Eleanora Ruscha who had asked Isabella
for identity is unclear, her decision to reject Isabella’s fashion (still unidentified)
meant that she stood out from her peers. When she changed her mind, however,
she required instruction or at least assistance from Ippolita Bentivoglio, adapting
it enough to change it into her own distinctive style.
As this suggests, Isabella and other women were clearly attentive to their
reputations as innovator. But Eleonora’s reputation has not survived, Isabella
14
d’Este was able to embed hers across Europe. This was, in part, by a campaign
that ensured she was regarded as a font of information about all things
fashionable. During his period at the court of François I, for example, the
secretary of her eldest son, Federico passed on the following request:
The king desires that you send him a doll dressed in the style that you wear
including your shirt, sleeves, under-dresses, over-garments and other items
and your head-dress and your hairstyle as you wear it; but send a range of
head-dresses, so that your Ladyship pleases him more for his Majesty
intends to have some of these made up to give to ladies in France.26
Almost a decade later, Isabella’s younger son, Ferrante’s secretary wrote from
Vallodolid with a similar demand:
I have been implored by a number of the ladies- in-waiting to the Queen to
have sent a doll from Italy dressed in the manner that is common there. I
beg your Excellency to send one with some pleasantries for women such as
the head-dress. 27
Sometimes the communication was even more direct. On 15 June 1523, for
example, Bona Sforza, Queen of Poland wrote thanking her for headdresses and
praising Isabella as the inventor of new hairstyles,
15
Via the nephew of the Royal barber we have had a letter from your ladyship
and six silk and gold snoods in the latest fashion…we pray Your Ladyship
to let us know when some new style of binding the head happens and to
send us something that is pretty and pleases you, for we are sure you never
miss anything as Your Ladyship is the source and origin of all of the
loveliest fashions in Italy. 28
Regardless of the hyperbole, Isabella’s determination to create a reputation as
‘the origin of all of the loveliest fashions in Italy’ brought clear political benefits in
a time of considerable unsettled military and geographic manoeuvring between
the Valois and Habsburg dynasties. Unlike her sister, Beatrice whose coazzone
style never made it beyond Milan’s s borders, knowledge about Isabella’s hairfashions became an international sign of novelty, even if the women in question
never actually wore her distinctive head-dresses.
These questions of imitation, already fraught for women, became even more
problematic when they involved aristocratic men. Here forms of visual allegiance
were tinged with issues of hierarchy. As the discussion of the coazzone has
already indicated, adopting the same style of dress or hair could demonstrate
subordination as well as allegiance. Thus when Isabella’s son Federico went to
Milan, effectively as hostage to the victorious French King Francois I who had
retaken Lombardy, the Mantuan ambassador reported how, on 6 November
1515,
16
On Sunday morning the King (Francois I) dressed in a doublet and
stockings fit for armour and a German dress of cloth of gold and white, lined
in black, short and tight; and he had a gold hairnet on his head with a beret
of velvet decorated with feathers all around. Dressed in this manner he
went to mass at the Grazie on foot and returning, also on foot, he joked and
pushed this one and the other into the mud… His Majesty retired into his
guardaroba and took my Lord (Federico) with him and spoke to him in a
friendly manner, asking him when he wanted to go to France. My lord
replied, ‘When Your Majesty will go’; the King then put his beret on his head
at an angle and said that he must wear beret of this type and cut his hair
shorter in the manner that his Majesty had cut his over the forehead, and
my Lord, most graciously said that tomorrow he would do so; His Majesty
dressed him as a Frenchman and said that he would see many countries
and cities and while they ‘dressed up’, they chatted thus. 29
The next day, the same ambassador reported, ‘After lunch, Monsignor Moretta
came bringing with him a barber and one who brought berets in the style of those
of the King and had his hair done in the style of the King and gave him a beret in
the fashion of that of the King; he looks alright although it is true that he seems a
bit fatter as his hair no longer comes down over his face.’ 30
17
The transformation of the adolescent Federico Gonzaga, whose father had
fought the French and was now in prison in Venice, could not have been more
overt. Once a Sforza supporter, he now stood subsumed under a beret, gilt
snood and short hair similar to that of the courtiers depicted waiting on the King
in the illuminated page of Diodorus Siculus. [Figure 10] This was no voluntary
sign of friendship and support and it may not be surprising that later portraits of
Federico emphasise his lengthy hair and curling beard rather than the French
fashions he was once asked to adopt.
Design and Manufacture
The implications of these transformations are clear. Visible communities were
constructed through hair and headwear; symbolic postures indicating connection,
superiority or subordination could be quickly read by observant viewers. But
unlike military helmets, crowns, cardinal’s hats or other forms of traditional
headwear indicating status, most Renaissance headwear was highly mutable. It
could only be scrutinised for meaning for a brief period before it was replaced by
yet another style. Thus the clues identifying relationships, status and connections
through accessories were embedded within a much larger system of
communication, supply, and demand.
King François I had presumably arrived in Milan with a wardrobe that was large
enough to change his clothes frequently and hand out caps and other
18
accoutrements to his followers. While more work needs to be done on French
court wardrobes, Italian court guardaroba accounts suggest that although fabrics
were stored in reasonable quantities, the other items required: hats, shoes etc.
were bought from specialists who served both the court and the wider urban
community. 31 Isabella, for example, ordered many of her hats from Venice while
the straw hats of Florence were sought after by court clients across Italy. This
meant that while a court patron often had a dedicated supplier or suppliers,
artisans rarely worked exclusively for a princely client. This had the potential to
allow for overlap between objects that were supplied to the court and those that
were sold to men and women at lower social levels. Indeed it suggests that
despite Isabella’s efforts, maintaining an exclusive control over any fashionable
item must have been very difficult. It is noteworthy that Isabella’s distinctive
capigliara features in numerous portraits of the 1520s and ‘30s from the Veneto
and Lombardy, including an image thought to be of Ippolita Bentivolgio, raising
questions about whether she ‘invented’ the look or simply adapted what was
available from a mercer’s stock. [Figure 12] Here, emulation, where one leader
sets the style that has to be followed by many, may not be the most obvious
model for Renaissance innovation. Instead, a more multi-centred network of
different groups: aristocrats, mercers and artisans needs to be explored.
Certainly, small-scale items such as the ribbons, hats, combs were easily
available on the street and in shops to a wide range of consumers at varying
prices and qualities. Ready-made items, such as woven ribbons, decorative
19
tinsel and bangles, fine linen, cambric or lace veils straw, felt and even velvet
hats as well as silk and gilt netting could be purchased from haberdashers, or
specialist producers such as capellai and velletai. Isabella was regularly sent
hats by her agents from Venice, Milan and Florence and the 1530 inventory of
Bernardo di Larione, a Florentine mercer indicates the type of range that was
available. His shop contained 5 velvet hats ‘of different types’; 9 taffeta hats ‘of
different types’ and colours, 3 berets, and a range of smaller berets and coifs or
scuffie of velvet and taffeta along with lace, ribbons, silk thread and fabrics. 32
A number of surviving early seventeenth-century account books for veil-makers
or velletai based on the Via dei Servi in Florence also demonstrate that they too,
like the city’s mercers, provided important services for women throughout the
city, offering a wide range of head-ware and materials. 33 Although this material is
from the seventeenth century, it may be suggestive of earlier practices which are
more difficult to document.
The records indicate that unlike most shops where the customers who made
purchases were male (even if they were products destined for women); vellati
sold almost exclusively to women. Customers in 1610 ranged from Isabella de’
Medici and members of the aristocratic Minerbetti family to the wives of builders,
barbers, wet-nurses, servants. Moreover, although the shop was run by a male
owner, Giovanni Piero di Andrea Challioni, he employed women to produce his
products. Thus, he paid a ‘Madona Lucia, nostra maestra di velli bolognese’ and
20
‘Madona Portia, nostra maestra de gli panni.’ The latter was paid, not in cash, but
in the shop’s products, exchanging 3 braccia of veil material that she had woven
for gilt ornaments, ‘gigliotti d’oro con lacrime’.
34
While Madonna Portia may have used these tear-shaped bangles for her own
head-wear, such overlaps are suggestive. As commercial intermediaries such as
mercers and veil-makers gained increasing prominence in Florence, they would
have been able to rapidly translate the latest court fashions, such as silk flowers
or twisted gilt ornaments into styles that could be adopted by a broader
constituency. Likewise, fashions that were discussed amongst the women who
came to the velletaio’s shop could be introduced in turn to members of the court.
As intermediaries, these professionals allowed for an overlap between the city
and the court that should not be described as ‘trickle-down’ or even ‘trickle-up’,
but as a constant interchange of ideas that could be accessed by a surprisingly
wide range of social groups. For example, Eleanora of Toledo, the Duchess of
Florence relied on the services on Gostanzo Gavazzeni, a veil-maker based on
the Via dei Servi in Florence to provide her with her characteristic snoods as well
as with lace collars and these styles could have been easily adapted for other
materials and other clients. 35
Hands, Gloves and Fans:
21
The question of the intersection between social meanings, court fashion and the
market-place becomes even more sensitive when we move from head to hands,
a shift that allows us to test these interactions in different ways. Accessories are
highly visible in the many full and half-length portraits that became increasingly
common in the sixteenth century. Some of what they offered to the viewer must
have been based on pictorial conventions, but the sheer ubiquity of items such
as gloves and fans is striking and is mirrored by their appearance in inventories
where they were often given high values.
These items were certainly available in earlier periods. In Italy, the poetry of
Petrarch and Lorenzo de’ Medici played with a fixation on the glove of the
beloved – where the woman’s hand entering the glove was presented as a highly
sensual act. 36 Popular as gifts, either amorous or as signs of friendship, the
leather glove was also an indicator of high status at court.37 There was a wide
diversity of products available – heavy leather types, two- toned versions that
were cut into ribbons on the edge, those that were slashed, as in Titian’s ‘Portrait
of a Young Man’ to allow rings to protrude and others that were simply slashed
as a sign of fashionable insouciance. [Figure 13]
Produced primarily in Spain, leather gloves were exported across Europe in large
numbers and specialist glove shops could be found in Rome by the early
seventeenth century. 38 Gloves were then subject to further modification by
shopkeepers and their clients. Numerous recipes for perfuming gloves survive,
22
some involved painting gloves with milk, egg white and brandy; others asked for
the gloves to be dipped them in a mixture of scented waters or embed them in
musk and dried flowers. 39 Isabella d’Este became renowned not only for her
hair-styles but also for her ability as a perfumer, supplying gloves to the Queen of
France and other court women, a form of courtly gift-giving that would eventually
prove popular across Europe. 40 In 1588, for example, the Spanish ambassador
to the Medici court presented the Grand Duke of Tuscany with a gold and silver
intarsia writing desk from India filled with perfumed gloves while the Grand
Duchess was also given perfumed gloves and other goods made in Spain.41
By the end of the century, dedicated glove shops could be found in the city
centres of Rome and Milan where a wide variety of products could be purchased
ready-made or to order while elaborately embroidered leather gloves now made
up the bulk of New-Year’s day gifts at Europe’s major courts. But while the
surviving examples, such as those in the Victoria and Albert Museum, are
complex objects made up of gilt metal thread and embroidery, these items were
also available to a much wider community. [Figure 14] In 1545, the Bolognese
government tried to prevent prostitutes from wearing, ‘embroidered and
perfumed gloves. 42
The cross-over between court fashion and the market is even more apparent
when we turn to the other major item depicted in Renaissance portraiture, the
fan. While the folding fan was an import from Ceylon and used primarily by
23
royalty, flag and feather fans were manufactured in a multitude of styles and
materials. 43 By 1512, the Venetian government attempted to control the sale of
exotic fans and in January 1525, the use of ‘fans of lynx and marten with gold
and silver handles with jewels and pearl’ was again outlawed 44 ; only ‘those of
simple feathers with handles of black wood or ivory’ were permitted. 45 Venetian
noblewomen were expected to eschew the elaborate fans that appear, for
example, in Lucrezia Borgia’s post-mortem inventory: ‘a small fan newly made by
master Alfonso Veronese, that is the body made of gold, stamped with flowers
with a small square on each side and in the middle, worked with thread with
pastiglia, and the handle was also of beaten gold, surrounded by black ostrich
feathers.
46
The maker of Lucrezia’s fan is clearly identified as one Alfonso Veronese but
most of the artisans involved in their manufacture and design remain
anonymous. Yet it is clear from correspondence that the interactions between the
court client, the mercer or other intermediary and the makers could often prove
very fruitful. Lucrezia Borgia, who invested heavily in water-buffalo and the
making and marketing of mozzarella cheese in order to increase her income,
sent buffalo horn from her herd to be made into fan handles by Antonio
Torlidore. 47 These were then distributed to her ladies-in-waiting as a sign of
friendship and alliance.
24
In 1494, the young Isabella was also able to design her own type of fan by asking
one supplier to modify the ready-made versions she had already received,
writing:
We wish to have three black fans of the size of the others that you sent to
us, but we don’t want them to have paper in the middle like those, but that
for durability, the feathers with their quills should be in between, covered
however by the feather as the paper is covered because when the feather
and quill are one, they will not age so easily as the paper ones do. 48
On other occasions, Isabella simply looked out for new trends and styles and
then promoted them amongst her circle. In 1513, for example she wrote to
Lorenzo Strozzi in Ferrara:
I have understood the Duchess (Lucrezia Borgia), our honoured sister-inlaw and sister, wishes to have one of those small fans of the type that they
are starting to use here, and finding myself with one, which we had made
for ourselves in the style of those that we saw in Milan which greatly
pleased us so that we can wear it attached to a belt, I send it to you so that
you can give it to Her Ladyship in our name, telling her that if it pleases her
it will give us pleasure. If not, she should advise us of the style and
measure that she wishes and we will immediately have it made.
49
25
While Isabella’s correspondence concerning accessories was primarily with other
women, men also appreciated these items. For example, Baldassare Castiglione
owned six ‘fans of straw worked with silk’ 50 and the seventeenth century
inventory of Cardinal Ridolfo Pio da Carpi included two fans made from parrot
feathers. 51 This makes the burgeoning market for ‘throw-away’ fans particularly
interesting. By the mid-sixteenth century, it was possible to buy paper templates
for fans that could be cut out, coloured, used to hold feathers and then thrown
away once they had disintegrated. [Figure 14] An indication of the scale is given
by the 182 folio sheets of printed fans or ventole found in the Milanese printer,
Vincenzo Girardone’s shop at his death. 52 The demand for these items was such
that in 1577 the Milanese bookseller, Ambrogio Lanfranco was granted a patent
giving him a lifetime monopoly on the manufacture and sale of printed fans
bearing the emblems of the King of Spain and the Pope along with poems in
praise of each, a privilege that was awarded because they were ‘new products’
that had been devised through Lanfranco’s ‘ingenuity, industry and expense’. 53
A few years earlier in 1573, the Milanese miniaturist Nunzio Galizio had
requested the rights over, ‘a most beautiful invention of illuminating fans in the
Spanish style’ while in 1584, Pompeo Romano put in an application for a
Venetian patent, ‘for a most beautiful invention of fans for women, working in
Bergamesque paper in wood and in ivory of the most subtle workmanship, and of
such there is no living man who can say that he has ever seen such except for
those which have come from my hands.‘ 54 He wanted a ten-year exclusive
26
rights to make and sell fans ‘of the said three materials, that is wood, ivory and
‘carta bergamina’.
Thus by the early seventeenth century, as the English traveller and writer
Thomas Coryate noted, imaginative fans could be found at very low prices; it was
not necessary to be a member of the court to own one,
The first fans that I saw in Italy did I observe in this space betwixt Pizighiton
and Cremona. But afterwards I observed them common in most places of
Italy where I traveled. These fans both men and women of the country do
carry to coole themselves withal in the time of heate, by the often fanning of
their faces. Most of them are very elegant and pretty things. For whereas
the frame consisteth of a painted piece of paper and a little wooden handle;
the paper which is fastened into the top is on both sides most curiously
adorned with excellent pictures, either of amorous things tending to
dalliance, having some witty Italian verse or fine emblemes written under
them; or of some notable Italian city with a briefe description thereof added
thereunto. These fannes are of a meane price. For a man may buy one of
the fairest of them for so much money as countervaileth with our English
groat. 55
Unconcerned about such ubiquity, court aristocrats took advantage of the ease
with which social, political and amorous messages could be rapidly diffused. In
27
1619, for example, the Grand Duke of Tuscany, Cosimo II de’Medici
commissioned the engraver, Jacques Callot to depict the naumachia or waterbattle that would take place between the Florentine dyers and weavers that he
was staging in the Arno. [Fig. 15] In his chronicle, the Florentine Cesare Tinghi,
noted that Cosimo,
...wishing that the women could better understand the subject of the
festival he had more than a thousand engravings made of the
theme, and from these he made five hundred fans in an oval form,
printing on them the theatre with the design of the festival and on
the other side many stanze composed on the theme of the festival
with gilded handles for the said fans. And he presented them by the
hand of Antonio Pulsanti who went to the windows where the said
women and gentlewomen were placed, giving them each a paper
fan and a handle. 56
Unable to see the naumachia close-up, the women at the windows would see
the engraved version on their fans. They, in turn, would be seen using these
items, symbols of their inclusion in the increasingly aristocratic world of Grandducal Florence. Far from being a frivolous, ‘throw-away’ commodity, the fan, like
the glove, braided hair and straw hats were distinctive signifiers of social
standing within and without the court. They were also indicators of the wearer’s
access to specialised goods and knowledge of novelties and fashion. Yet at the
28
same time, these were firmly tied to a rapidly changing marketplace that
responded with large numbers of inexpensive versions for a broader clientele. As
this suggests the movement was not always in one direction, with mercers and
velletai imitating and spreading the exclusive designs produced for the highest
aristocrats. Indeed, they, along with other entrepreneurs, tried to present novel
versions to Duchesses and Princesses who made their choices from the same
selection that was more widely available. Here, as with hats and hairstyles,
novelty and fashion did not always move downwards, but moved simultaneously
in multiple directions. The speed of the cross-over and constant interaction
between court clients, entrepreneurial manufacturers and merchants and
fashionable urban men and women allowed for successful, rapid diffusion of
these products not only within Italy but across Europe. It is this rapidity and
mobility that may explain why in the late sixteenth-century portraits of Qeen
Elizabeth of England and an unknown Cremonese noblewoman, both figures,
despite their differing nationalities and social status were depicted holding
brightly-coloured feather fans, symbols no longer of political allegiance but of
their respective knowledge of novelty and innovative European fashions. [Figures
16 & 17]
29
I would like to thank the British Academy for a grant supporting the costs of
photographs for this article.
1
There is a large literature on the anthropology of bodily display with a focus on
hair. The most influential initial investigation is now much disputed, Edmund
Leach, ‘Magical Hair’, Journal of the Anthropological Institute, 88 (1958), 147-64.
See also Raymond Firth, ‘Hair as Private Asset and Public Symbol’ in Symbols:
Public and Private (London, 1973); C.R. Halpike, ‘Social Hair’, Man, n.s. 4
(1969), 2256-64; P. Hershman, ‘Hair, Sex and Dirt’, Man, 9 (1974), 274-98.
Anthony Synnott, ‘Shame and Glory: A Sociology of Hair’ The British Journal of
Sociology, 38.3 (1987), 381-413. An interesting use of this approach can be seen
in the essays devoted to hair in Eighteenth-Century Studies, 38 (2004),
especially the introduction by Angela Rosental and Margaret Powell’s essay, ‘Big
Hair’, 79-99. For further work see also Mary Louise Roberts, ‘Samson and
Delilah Revisited: The Politics of Clothing in 1920’s France’, American Historical
Review, 98 (1993), 657-84; Alden Cavanaugh, ‘The Coiffeur of Jean-Batiste
Greuze’, Eighteenth-Century Studies, 38 (2004), 165-81 and Don Herzog, ‘The
Trouble with Hairdressers’, Representations, 53 (1996), 21-43.
2
For Ming China see Craig Clunas, Superfluous Things. Material Culture and
Social Status in Early Modern China, Cambridge, 1991; for contemporary
America see Diana Crane, Fashion and its Social Agendas. Class, Gender and
Identity in Clothing, (Chicago, 2000). See also Erica Rand, Barbie’s Queer
Accessories (Chapel Hill, 1995).
30
3
An exception is Grazietta Butazzi, ‘L’acconciatura femminile della seconda
metà del secolo xv nei “figurini” di Vecellio in Jeannine Guérin Dalle Mese, ed., Il
vestito e la sua imagine. Atti del convegno in omaggio a Cesare Vecellio nel
quarto centenario della morte (Belluno, 2002), 41-54 who discusses Giovanni
Guerra’s 1589, Varie acconciature di teste usate da nobilissime dame in diverse
cittadi d’Italia. On this text see also C. Mazzi ‘Le acconciature di Giovanni
Guerra’, La bibliofilia, 1 (1900), 229-233. See also, Maria Hayward, ‘'The sign of
some degree'?: The social, financial and sartorial significance of male headwear
at the courts of Henry VIII and Edward VI', Costume, 36 (2002), pp. 1-17.
4
Virginia Krause, Idle Pursuits. Literature and Oisivité in the French Renaissance
(Wilmington, Delaware, 2004), 37.
5
Giovanni Pontano, ‘On the Prince’ in Jill Kraye, ed., Cambridge Translations of
Renaissance Philosophical Texts: Moral and Political Philosophy (Cambridge,
1997), 83.
6
1 Cor. 11:14-15 and the discussion in Synnot, ‘Shame and Glory, 381.
7
Marin Sanudo, I diarii (Venice, 1903), 58, col. 108: 8 May 1533: ... et no si
possi innovar nè mutare foza circa il ditto coprire di testa, et far usanza nova, nè
portar berete nè capeli.
31
8
On footwear see Paola Venturelli, “Vigevano e la cazatura tra il xiv e il xix
secolo” in Dalla parte della scarpa. Le calzature a Vigevano dal 1400 al 1940,
Vigevano, 1992 and Giorgio Riello, A Foot in the Past. Consumers, Producers
and Footwear in the long Eighteenth century, Oxford, 2006.
9
Synott, ‘Shame and Glory’, 381. A discussion of Julius II’s beard was used to
date his portrait by Raphael, see Mark Zucker, ‘Raphael and the Beard of Julius
II’, Art Bulletin, 59 (1977), 524-33.
10
Will Fisher, ‘The Renaissance Beard: Masculinity in Early Modern England’,
Renaissance Quarterly, 54 (2001), 155-87 and Materializing Gender in Early
Modern English Literature and Culture (Cambridge, 2006).
11
Peter Stallybrass and Ann Rosalind Jones, ‘Fetishizing the Glove in
Renaissance Europe’, Critical Inquiry, 28 (2001), 114-32.
12
On barbars and barbarshops see Anglica Pediconi, ‘The Art and Culture of
Bathing in Renaissance Rome’, Unpublished MA Dissertation, V&A/RCA MA in
History of Design, 2002; Anna Esposito, ‘Stufe a bagni pubblici a Roma nel
rinascimento’, in Massimo Miglio, ed., Taverne, locande e stufe a Roma nel
rinascimento (Rome, 1999), 77-91 and Sandra Cavallo, Artisans of the Body in
Early Modern Italy. Identities, Families and Masculinities (Manchester,2007) .
32
13
Alessandro Luzio and Rodolfo Renier, ‘Il lusso di Isabella d’Este, Marchesa di
Mantova: accessorî e segreti della “toilette”’, Nuova antologia, 65 (1896), 666:
Benedetto Capilupi to Isabella d’Este, 3 February 1505: La conzadura de la testa
de queste donne et de la ducessa è appunto come quella de V. Ex. et de le
donne nostre, cum le vellette chi zalde, chi broccate et chi bianche, nè attendono
ad altro che ad meglio crisparle l’una de l’altra sì come facevano le nostre putte.
14
Jane Huggett, Did They Wash in Those Days? Personal Hygiene, Cleanliness
and Washing in the 14th to the 17th centuries (Bristol, 2000) and Georges
Vigarello, Concepts of Cleanliness: Changing Attitudes in France since the
Middle Ages (Cambridge, 1988).
15
Douglas Biow, The Culture of Cleanliness in Renaissance Italy (Ithaca, 2006).
16
Luzio and Renier, ‘Il lusso’, 670-1: On 25 January 1494, Isabella wrote to her
husband: Havendome hozi lavata la testa, sono stata tanto a sugarla ch’el dì è
passato. Similarly, in 1502, Lucrezia Borgia avoided her guests during her
wedding ceremonies and wasn’t seen for an entire day, ‘per haverlo speso tutto
in lavarsi la testa’. A later document from Antonia del Balzo, the wife of Gian
Francesco Gonzaga of Bozzolo, explained that her daughter Camilla could not
see Isabella on 8 January 1518, ‘per havere hozi lavata la testa.’
33
17
Alessandro Luzio and Rodolfo Renier, Mantova e Urbino. Isabella d’Este ed
Elisabetta Gonzaga nelle relazioni famigliari e nelle vicende politiche (Turin,
1893), 118: 1 May 1502, La signora marchesana, a chi tocca la parte delli
aconzamenti del capo, dice che’l Piceno (Benedetto da Cingoli) non si doveva
maravigliare che li romani fussero remasti tanto satisfacti de li ligamenti de li
capelli suoi, perchè se havessero posto quella acurata diligentia in considerare el
diritto de le medalie, che hanno facto de li reversi, non haveriano tanto laudato
l’acconziatura de la testa sua…voi mostrate pigliare tanta admiratione de le nove
foggie di cappelli et del garbo diverso dalli altri, che se col vostro subtile ingegno
ben l’havesti considerate iudicaresti che ad anteveduto fine fossero state
introducte: unde acciò che n’habiate ad remanere chiaro, perchè poco recevere
offensione dal sole nè da l’aqua era da vedere, parse a chi conosceva el
costume de le genti cum quale se havesse a conversare che’l periculo solo drieto
alle spalle consistesse et che reparto ad quella parte tutto il resto della persona
se dovesse rendere sicura et cusì li cappelli se ben sono stati examinati
coprevano quello che più era da temere, et ben fo utile et salubre remedio, che
ancora cum tal deffensivo appena ne siamo possute redure salve et che sii il
vero, benchè siamo lontane, de darci in la schena. Gli forno de quelle che
hebbero in fantasia de fare qualche altro novo habito, ma per non torre la fogia
ad certi che havevano già prima scripto de calze alla sforzesca, berette a
l’antiqua cum la lettera alla ducale at altri novi ornamenti per non dispiacerli ad
finchè loro soli de tale inventione havessero l’honore se resto de imitarli,
34
bastando assai comparire così mediocramente et provvedere fra tutte de
cappelli, come de cosa più importante in li presenti tempi.
18
First Letter to the Corinthians (11.4-11.15). See also G. Signori, “Veil, Hat or
Hair? Reflections on an Asymmetrical Relationship”, The Medieval History
Journal, 8, 2005, pp. 25-47 and Evelyn Welch, ‘Signs of Faith’.
19
20
G. Signori, Veil, Hat or Hair? p. 30.
Archivio di Stato, Milan, Archivio Sforzesco, Missive 84, f. 55 Galeazzo Maria
Sforza to Nicodemo Tranchedini da Pontremoli, 20 July 1468: Perché la
illustrissima nostra consorte damo inanti ha advestire l’habito e acconzature de la
testa al modo lombardo et perho bisognandogli de quelli velli subtilissimi de
bombacino et de li più belli et fini che se possino trovare como tu poy pensare
perché siano boni et degni per el suo portare volimo che subito recevuta questa
debii provedere meglio te parera che se habia fin in una dozena de quelli se
fanno ad Cità di Castello et al Borgo San Sepulchro dove intendemo se fanno in
tutta perfectione quali poy subito ne manderay facendo havere advertentia como
havere dicto che siano de tutta perfectione et sutilità et vineza et volemo essere
deli curti al modo che se usano ogi de qui in lombardia.
21
Evelyn Welch, Art and Authority in Renaissance Milan, New Haven, 1995, 225.
On Cecilia see Janice Shell and Grazioso Sironi, ‘’Cecilia Gallerani: Leonardo’s
Lady with an Ermine’, Artibus et historiae, 25 (1992), 47-66.
35
22
Maria Teresa Binaghi Olivari, “La moda a Milano al tempo di Ludovico il Moro”,
Milano nell’età di Ludovico il Moro, Milan, 1983, 633-50.
23
For example Susanna Gonzaga’s request of 5 April 1512 to wear one of
Isabella’s ‘inventione’, Luzio and Renier, ‘Il lusso di Isabella d’Este, Marchesa di
Mantova: il guardaroba’, Nuova antologia, 63 (1896), 462.
24
Luzio and Renier, ‘Il lusso’, 667: Ritrovandomi a Locharno, ho presentito
essere stà portato a Milano da certe zentildone una nova fogia de zazare de seta
provenute da notabile inventione dela prefata Vostra Signoria; et per retrovarmi
al presente quasi senza capelli, cum sumo desiderio prego quella me voglia fare
essere degna de una; la qual cossa per me non saria altramente domandata per
non essere notata presumptuosa, se qualla mia ardentissima fede como è dicto
non me havesse al tuto excitata e spinta a questo, et anchora per esserne sta
mandato a Milano reputato la S.V. non farne gran capituli, che quando fusse per
sua particularità servata non haveria ardito fare altra richiesta. Et cusì prego la
prefata v.ill.ma S.a che essendoli qualche conziatura de testa avanzata e che più
non sia a lo uso de la S.V. ma più presto demissa, me ne voglia far partecipevole
aciò anchora io non para sia forra del numero de le fidelissime de epsa V. Ill.ma
S.
25
Luzio and Renier, ‘Il lusso’, 667: Agnese degli Attendoli to Isabella d’Este, 12
January 1512: Nel principio ch’io venne in questa terra assai laudavano la fogia
de la cunciadura de la testa, excepto m.ma Leonora, qual disse che non li piacea
36
et che li parea una fogia da petegacola; et ley da lì a duy giorni andete da M.ma
Ipolita Bentivola a farse cunziare anchor lei a dicta fogia. Quando io la vidi li
dissi: dunque anchor voy voleti essere nel numero de le petegacole? Credo bene
li rencresca ley non essere stata la prima a retrovare tal fogia, et ge porta una
capigliara de sopra via et ha facto tenzere in negro li scuffiotti ge mandò v. ex.
Lasso fare iuditio a quella come possa stare.
26
Raffaele Tamalio, Federico Gonzaga alla Corte di Francesco I di Francia nel
carteggio private con Mantova (1515-1517) (Paris, 1994), 128: Monsignor
Moretta me ha detto ch’el Re desidera che Vostra Signoria li mandi una puva
vestita alla fogia che va lei de camisa, di maniche, de veste di sotto, e di sopra,
et de abiliamenti, et aconciatura di testa, et deli capilli, come la porta ; mandando
perhò varie fogie di aconciatura di testa, Vostra Signoria satisfarà melio perché
sua maesta designa far fare alcuni de quelli habiti per donar a donne in Franza,
ASMna, AG 2121. For a discussion of the dolls see Ysanna C. Coroizat, ‘”Living
Dolls”: François Ier Dresses his Women’, Renaissance Quarterly, 50 (2007),
pp.94-130.
27
Raffaele Tamalio, Ferrante Gonzaga alla corte spagnola di Carlo V nel
carteggio privato con Mantova (1523-26): la formazione da “cortigiano” di un
generale d’Impero, (Mantua, 1991), 203, Pandolfo di Picci della Mirandola, 31
August 1524: Io sono importunate d’alchune damiselle dela Signora Regina che
gli fazzi venire de Italia una puva vestita in tuta del modo se accostuma lí. Siché
37
supplico votra excellentia che commetta ne sia mandata una con qualch’altra
gentilezza da donne come sono accunciature da testa per dare alla Signora
Donna Magdalenea Manricha, una dele donzelle dela prefata Signora Regina,
che cosi se chiama qualla che serve il signor mio patrone.
28
Luzio and Renier, ‘Il lusso di Isabella d’Este, Marchesa di Mantova: l’arredo
degli appartamenti’, Nuova antologia, 65 (1896), 267: Per il nepote del barbiero
regio habbemo a questi dì passati una lettera de Vostra Signoria et per essa sei
scuffiotti de seta et de oro de nova foggia…per tanto pregamo Vostra Signoria se
contenta quando qualche nova foggia di abendare la testa li occorserà, che
semo certissimo non mancarne mai per essere Vostra Signoria fonte et origine
de tucte le belle foggie d’Italia, de mandarne qualche una bella et che li
piaccia….
29
Tamalio, Federico Gonzaga, 105-8:Stazio Gadio to Francesco Gonzaga, 6
November 1515: Domenica matina il Re se vestì d’uno zupone et calze da
armare et una veste alla todescha de panno d’oro et pan biancho fodrata de
bassette negre, cinta et curta, et havea uno scufiotto d’oro in testa con beretta de
veluto fornita de penne a torno,et vestito a questo modo andò a messa alle
Gratie a piede et ritornò anche a piede scherzando et urtando questo e quel’altro
nel fango, a lui anchor vi andava… Finito il ragionamento Sua Maestà se ritirò in
guardarobba et il signor mio andò seco, et il Re raginò seco molto
domesticamente, dimandandoli quando vora andar in Franza: sua signoria
38
rispose <<quando Sua Maestà vi andarà>>; li [mise] la sua beretta in testa de
una piga, et disseli ch’el [dovria] portar berette di quella sorte et farsi curtar più li
capelli nel modo che Sua Maestà havea tagliati sul fronte, et molto gentilmente il
signor mio li risponde dicendo che dimane il faria. Sua Maestà li divisò la Franza
et dicevali che’el vederia tanti paesi e cità et mentre si stravestirno stetteno in
questi ragionamenti.
30
Tamalio, Federico Gonzaga, 112, Stazio Gadio to Francesco Gonzaga, 7
November 1515: Hozi sua signoria ando al Re, qual per il mal tempo non uscì di
castello ma udi messa in castello alla capella, et postosi Sua Maestà a tavola il
signor mio venne ad disnar et seco menò il signor Federico da Bozolo. Doppo
disnar monsignor Moretta venne menando seco uno barbero et uno che portò
dele berete alla fogia di quelle dil Re, et fece acconciar li capilli al modo dil Re, et
detteli una beretta da parte dilla Sua Maestà, nella qual sta assai bene, vero è
ch’el pare alquano più grasso perche li capilli non li asconde il volto.
31
On the management of the Medici guardaroba see Marcello Fantoni, La corte
del Granduca. Forma e simboli del potere mediceo fra cinque e seicento, Rome,
1994.
32
ASF, Magistrato dei Pupilli avanti il Principato 188, f.504r-505r. My thanks to
Ann Matchette for this reference.
39
33
ASF, Libri di commercio e di famiglia, 933, Giovanni Piero di Andrea Challionni
velletaio nella via de Servi alla insegna di San Girolamo.
34
ASF, Libri di commercio e di famiglia, 933, Giovanni Piero di Andrea Challionni
velletaio nella via de Servi alla insegna di San Girolamo.
35
ASF, Mediceo del Principato, 1170, insert n.4, f.221, 1543 May 16.,
www.medici.org. Further documentation on the veil-maker is in ASF , Mediceo
del Principato, 1170, insert n.2, f.145, 1542 Nov 27; ASF , Mediceo del
Principato, 1170, insert n.27 f.409, 1542 Nov 29; ASF , Mediceo del Principato,
1170, insert n.2, f.134, 1542 Nov 26, www.medici.org.
36
Stallybrass and Jones.
37
On Ippolita Sforza, Duchess of Calabria’s gift of gloves to Lorenzo dei Medici
to pass onto his mistress in 1486 see, Judith Bryce, ‘Between Friends? Two
letters of Ippolita Sforza to Lorenzo de’ Medici’, Renaissance Studies, 21 (2007),
361.
38
A description of early seventeenth century Rome describes, ‘the statue of
Pasquino, where one finds the seat of the compilers of topical pamphlets and the
writers of stories. In that one is the post office of Milan, the printer of the chamber
(Stampatore Camerale), the book sellers, the glove shops and the stationers.’
See Rose Marie San Juan, Rome. A City Out of Print (Minneapolis, 2001), 7.
40
Bills of lading for Spanish ships arriving in Livorno often carried boxes of gloves
destined for mercers in Florence and Milan as in ASF , Mediceo del Principato,
538a, f.1004, 1568 Oct 29, www.medici.org: 1 casetta di guanti a [Piero di Gino]
Chapponi/1 casetta di guanti a Dusi e Rovelaschi [di Milano].
39
Giuliana Grando, Profumi e cosmesi nella Venezia del cinquecento (Venice,
1985). See also Evelyn Welch, ‘Scented Buttons and Perfumed Gloves:
Smelling Things in Renaissance Italy’, forthcoming.
40
Welch, ‘Shopping’, 267-70.
41
Archivio di stato, Modena,AF 29, 1, 455: Ha presentato esso Ambasciatore (di
Spagna) al Granduca un scrittioi di canna d’India assai grande, tutto intarsiato
d’oro et d’argento, con molte cassette dentro tutte peien et di guanti profumati et
di lavori di Spagna....Ha anco appresentato le Principesse di guanti di Spagna
profumati et di lavori di Spagna et di pasticche... Butters.
42
Muzzarelli, Emilia Romagna, 190. 1545 28 March: Né sia loro etiamdio lecito
portare al collo, alle braccia, alle orecchie, o alla cintura sorte alcuna di collane,
cathene o simili ornamenti dove siano oro, argento, perle e gioie, misture
d’ambra, muschio, profumi o altri simili odori, né anchora guante ricamati, o
profumati.
43
Anne Marie Jordan, ‘Exotic Renaissance Accessories: Japanese, Indian and
Sinhalese fans at the Court of Portugal and Spain’, Apollo, 150 (1999), 25-35.
41
44
Doretta Davanzano Poli, ‘Ventagli veneziani’, in Ventagli italiani. Moda,
costume, arte (Florence, 1990), 35: ‘ventoli di penne, zebellini...che le donne
haveano principiato usar’
45
Giancarlo Marsiletti, Il ventaglio dipinto. Arte preziosa dal seicento all’ottocento
(Vicenza, 1992), 15: ventagli de lovi cervieri (lynx) et zebellini cum li manegi
d’oro et d’argento cum zoglie de perle per sopra...siano del tutto banditi, che usar
non se possino, salvo de pene semplice cum li maneggi loro de osso negro over
avolio.
46
Luzio and Renier, ‘Il lusso’, 688. Uno ventaglio piccolo novamente fatto per
maestro Alfonso veronese, cioè tutto il corpo fatto d’oro battuto a fiori stampiti
cum uno quadretto da ogni canto, nel mezzo lavorato di filo con pasta di
compositione, et il manico pure d’oro batuto, circondato da penne de struzo
negro. Lucrezia owned 6 other elaborate fans including, ‘Uno manico da
ventagio di oro battuto fatto ad epitaphio smaltato di bianco verde et rosso et in
mezzo uno epitapho piccolo cum lettere; uno ventaglio negro coperto di penne
bianche sotto ad uno g’rada di oro battuto col manico di oro battuto cum
smalto....’. See Archivio di stato, Modena, Archivio Estense, amministrazione dei
Principi, b. 1139, Inventario delle gioei e di altre robe di Lucrezia Borgia, 151619. My thanks to Diane Ghirardo for this reference.
47
Diane Ghirardo, ‘Le bufale estensi e l’imprenditoria femminile ducale nella
Ferrara del Rinascimento’, Bollettino della Ferrariae Ducus, 20 (2003), 74: L. una
42
soldi dua per tanti dela valuta dela sua merzede davere fato sie (sei) manichi di
chorna di buffalo per fare sie (sei) ventalii a sie (sei) donzelle.
48
Luzio and Renier, ‘Il lusso’, 687, Isabella d’Este to Francesco Staffetti, 30 April
1494: Desideramo havere tri ventalii negri de la grandeza che furono li altri ce
mandasti, ma non voressimo che havessino carta in mezzo, come hanno quelli,
ma che per forteza gli fussero poste inframezo le penne col nervo, coperte poi de
le plume come si coprono le carte, però che esse penne integre col nervo non se
inviscaranno così facilmente come fanno le carte.
49
Luzio and Renier, ‘Il lusso’, 686-7. Isabella d’Este to Lorenzo Strozzi, 2 June
1513: Inteso per la littera vostra el desiderio de la Ill.ma Duchessa nostra
congnata et sorella hon. de havere uno ventaglio piccolo de la sorte che si
cominciano ad usare qua, et retrovandone haver uno, quale havemo facto fare
per noi ala fogia de alcuni che vedessimo a Milano, che molto ni piacquero, per
poterli portar attacati ala cinta, vi lo mandiamo aciò che in nome nostro la doniati
a S. Ex. con dirli che s’el gli piacesse n’haremo piacere; se non, che ne avisi la
fogia et la grandezza de che la el voria che subito il faremo fare...’
50
Guido Rebecchini, Private Collectors in Mantua, 1500-1630 (Rome, 2002) 320.
51
Claudio Franzoni, Giorgia Mancini, Tama Previdi, Manuela Rossi, eds., Gli
inventari dell’eredità del Cardinal Rodolfo Pio da Carpi (Pisa, 2002), 34: un
ventaglio di penne di papagallo; un ventaglio longo di penne di papagallo.
43
52
K. M. Stevens, ‘Vincenzo Birardone and the Popular Press in Counter-
Reformation Milan: A Case Study’, Sixteenth-century Journal, 26 (1995), 653.
53
K. M. Stevens and P. F. Gehl, ‘The Eye of Commerce: Visual Literacy Among
the Makers of Books in Italy’, in Marcello Fantoni, Louisa C. Matthew and Sara
Matthews-Grieco, eds, The Art Market in Italy. 15th –17th Centuries (Modena,
2003), 277.
54
For Nunzio Galizio see Paola Venturelli, Gioelli e gioellieri milanesi : sstoria,
arte, moda (1450-1630), 191 : ‘belissima inventione di ameniatura di ventali ala
spagnuola’. For Pompeo Romano see : Archivio di Stato, Venice, Provveditori di
Comun, b.15, reg.29, 165v-67r: per una bellissima inventione di ventogli da
donne lavorati in carta bergamina in legno et avolio de lavoro sottilissimo, e tal
qual non e huomo vivente che possa allegar de haverne mai piu visti se non
dalla origine delle mie mani.’ My thanks to Luca Molà for this reference.
55
Thomas Coryate, Coryate’s Crudities, Glasgow, 1905, vol. 1, 256.
56
Ventagli Italiani, 140-1: ...volendo che mellio le dame intendessero il sugetto
della festa fece stampare più di mille cartelli del soggetto, et fece fare
cinquecento roste o ventarole in forma ovata; stampandovi il teatro con la forma
della festa; et dall’altra parte molte stanze, composte sopra la materia della festa
44
et con e’ manici inargentati di dette roste le mandò a presentare per mano di
messer Antonio Pulsanti alle finestre dove erano dette dame et gentildonne, con
un cartello e un vallo per ciascheduna’.
45
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